everyday i watch the break at playa negra.
and everyday i surf the safer smaller break just south of playa negra.
ive got six days left and i have to surf this break.
las olas are muy rapido and the bottom is la rocas.
i almost drowned once in kauai. and that kind of experience just stays with you.
i used to surf with friends and although they could do nothing should something happen, you knew they were there. and it just felt safer.
yesterday i was walking the path home and a black horse walked right up to me in the road.
we stopped and just stared at each other for an undetermined amount of time. i teared up.
then he walked around me and blasted out a magnificent nay.
we both went on our way. feel like there is some symbolism there with fear.