Wednesday, February 11, 2009

like a kid in a candy store...

had my first two days of full surf.
got a new board from friends, an 8.5 longborad shaped by hans christian vandervoort...sweet!!!!
here is a typical tica breakfast before the waves...

meet andre. andre is brazilian who has lived and worked in l.a. for the last ten years. he is driving from l.a. back to his beach home in brazil. he will travel a total of about 17, 000 miles.
the waves were machine washed so we practiced throwing a hatchet. 

andre took me to marbella

here is mark the turtle guy. i helped him hide a nest of leatherback turtle eggs. they are seriously endangered and are poached by the locals for money. mark is enthusiastic, and thats an understatement.
more practice.
here is the pilgrim, a firefighter from california who travels and surfs six months out of the year. pura vida.
andres hammock. i couldve slept in for days.
andre and i are off to surf again, then he heads to the caribbean side to puerto viejo to surf the monster wave, salsa bravo. im sticking around negra but have made a plan to go and travel with him and stay in puerto viejo, a little rasta town for my last days.

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