yesterday may have been the happiest day of my life thus far.
walked 4 kilometers to playa avellanas.
had read the night before the four agreements
and one of the agreements is to be impeccable with your word and not to speak against yourself.
the whole time ive been saying i cant ride short boards, but on the walk i visualized myself on the short board and kept saying that i could ride it,
and i did all day in some big waves,
the locals said these were the best they had seen in months.
i love duck diving, cant do that with a longboard.
i love the seaspray from the breaking wave; it creates rainbows.
i love surfing.
this morning i awoke very early and went to the beach to find all these ticos fishing at low tide.
they were running back and forth and over the rock reef and just pulling out fish after fish.
it filled me with such joy. they were all so happy and screaming and running around.
i asked one to show me how it was done - in spanish, no less.
oscar gave me his gear and i threw out a few.
they dont use polls, but rather a block of wood with fishing line wrapped a million times.
you take the end of the line and spin the lure and then release.
ive got enough fish for days. 1 mil colones, 2 bucks.